My 5EPxSF Jeans

Words by: Fok-Yan Leung


This week, GQ ran a short article on the 5EP for Styleforum jean, which I’d had some hand in bringing to reality. 5EP is a small American company that makes some of the most remarkable denim in the world, at any price. The dye is a mixture of natural and pure indigo, which Christine Rucci, the “Godmother” of the 5EP family, created with a Japanese master, one of the few who have been designated a national treasure in Japan. Christine has told me that the dye is very unstable, which accounts for the complex “ageing” abilities of the denim as it is worn and washed, with hints of purple, green and yellow undertones emerging as the jeans slowly fade.

I approached Christine with the idea for a special Styleforum jean after she had come onto Styleforum on the recommendation of another member. I had been wearing the Low Down bootcut for a while, but I wanted a jean in the 5EP denim and hardware that was a little slimmer throughout, a straight leg, and a little lower rise. I thought that there was about a 50:50 chance that she would reject the idea outright, and that if she agreed, that getting even a agreement in principle would be a bit of a grind, so I was pretty surprised, and a little unprepared, when she emailed me back the next day saying that it would be a good idea. For one thing, Styleforum is a community forum, not a commercial site, so we don’t have very coffers. Actually, we don’t really have coffers at all. Luckily, Mauro Farinelli, the owner of The Denim Bar stepped in and helped us make the idea a reality, with members of Styleforum providing suggestions on what they would like.

This September, a very limited run of 200 jeans will be available at select retailers, Oak in New York, Uncle Otis in Toronto, and Denim Bar. In my next article, I’ll tell you how we went about designing the jeans.